Cartagena

December–April is Cartagena's dry season — the best weather (27–32°C), minimal rain, and the Caribbean at its most swimmable. December–January are peak season (school holidays and North American visitors); February–April are excellent shoulder months. The high humidity year-round is significant — Cartagena is hot and sticky regardless of season, with only the wind off the Caribbean providing relief.

May–November is the wet season — heavy afternoon rains (mornings are usually clear), slightly lower prices, and the city's extraordinary character is undiminished by rain. The light on the colonial buildings after rain is extraordinary for photography.

1. Walking the walled city

The colonial walled city (Ciudad Amurallada) is walkable in an afternoon but rewards 2–3 days of exploration. The Plaza de los Coches, the Plaza de la Aduana, and the Palacio de la Inquisición (AUD $5 entry, brutal history thoughtfully presented) are the centrepieces. The old city's streets at 6pm — the heat has eased, the light is golden, the plazas fill with locals — are extraordinary. Free to walk; budget for sunset rum and lime on a rooftop terrace.

2. City walls at sunset

The 11km of 16th-17th century stone walls surrounding the old city can be walked for free — the sunset from the Baluarte de San Francisco Javier or Café del Mar (a bar built into the wall) over the Caribbean is one of Colombia's finest views. Arrive an hour before sunset for a wall-top table.

3. Islas del Rosario boat trip

Coral islands 45km offshore in the Caribbean — the Parque Nacional Natural Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo. Day boat trips (AUD $30–50 per person including transport and lunch) visit San Martín de Pajarales (small sharks and rays, AUD $15 extra) and deliver Caribbean beach and snorkelling time. The coral has been affected by climate change but the water clarity and fish life remain excellent.

• Hostel in the old city: AUD $20–40/night. Boutique hotel in Getsemaní: AUD $60–120/night. Colonial mansion hotel: AUD $200–400/night.
• Arepa de huevo (fried corn cake with egg, street food): AUD $1–2.
• Ceviche at a restaurant: AUD $8–15.
• Sunset cocktail on the city walls: AUD $10–18 per cocktail.
• Boat trip to Islas del Rosario: AUD $30–50.
• Getting there: Sydney to Cartagena requires 2 connections (typically via Dallas or Miami, and Bogotá). Budget AUD $1,800–3,000 return and 24–30 hours travel.

Cartagena is significantly safer than Colombia's wider reputation suggests, particularly in the old city and tourist areas. Specific precautions: the Getsemaní neighbourhood (adjacent to the old city, excellent restaurants and nightlife) requires more awareness than the walled city itself — go as a group at night. Do not accept drinks from strangers at bars — scopolamine (a drug used in robberies) is occasionally used in tourist areas. Use app-based taxis (InDriver, Cabify) rather than hailing street taxis. Do not display expensive equipment on the street.

Day 1: Old City

Morning: Plaza de los Coches, Palacio de la Inquisición. Midday: retreat to an air-conditioned café (the heat is significant). Late afternoon: city walls walk at sunset. Evening: Getsemaní for dinner and neighbourhood exploration.

Day 2: Islas del Rosario

Full day boat trip to the coral islands. Return by 5pm. Evening: rooftop terrace cocktail in the old city.

Day 3: Bocagrande and departure

Bocagrande (the modern beach district — good for swimming, unremarkable architecture). Afternoon departure or extension to Mompox (6 hours by boat/van, one of South America's most intact colonial towns) or Medellín (45-minute flight).