Delhi

October–March is Delhi's best season — cooler temperatures (8–24°C), the infamous Delhi smog (from crop burning and vehicle emissions) is at its worst in October–November but clears by December. January and February are the most comfortable months: clear skies, mild days (15–22°C), and cold nights (5–8°C). Delhi's monuments, markets and food scene are at their best.

April–June (summer) brings ferocious heat — 40–46°C in May and June. The Taj Mahal at 45°C is a genuine endurance test. Avoid for outdoor India exploration.

July–September (monsoon) brings heavy rain, flooding, and high humidity. The countryside turns green and photogenic but the cities struggle.

1. Old Delhi dawn — Chandni Chowk

Old Delhi at 6am is one of the world's great urban experiences: the Jama Masjid morning prayer call, the paratha shops of Paranthe Wali Gali opening, the flower market behind the mosque, and the extraordinary activity of a city waking. Rickshaw through the bazaar from the Lahore Gate of the Red Fort (AUD $3–5 for a rickshaw loop of the old town). Breakfast: aloo paratha with pickle and curd at any of the century-old shops.

2. Red Fort and Humayun's Tomb

The Red Fort — Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan's 17th-century palace complex — is UNESCO-listed and best visited in the early morning (open 6am, entry AUD $10 for foreigners). Humayun's Tomb (AUD $12) is the precursor to the Taj Mahal — built 1565, it established the Mughal garden tomb tradition. Both are in Old Delhi / Central Delhi.

3. Qutb Minar

A 73-metre minaret built in 1193 — the oldest minaret in India and surrounded by the ruins of Delhi's first mosque, built using materials from 27 Hindu and Jain temples. Entry AUD $8. Extraordinarily well-preserved. Combined with Humayun's Tomb on a half-day circuit.

4. Taj Mahal day trip (Agra)

Agra is 200km from Delhi — 2 hours by Gatimaan Express or Shatabdi Express (AUD $10–20, book ahead). The Taj Mahal (AUD $20 entry, open sunrise to sunset except Friday) is everything the photographs suggest — the quality of the white marble changes colour with the light throughout the day. Go at opening time for the clearest skies and thinnest crowds. Agra Fort (500m walk from the Taj, AUD $8) is equally worth seeing. Return to Delhi same day.

• Budget hotel in Paharganj or Karol Bagh: AUD $20–45/night. Mid-range near Connaught Place: AUD $60–120/night.
• Street food meal (chaat, aloo tikki, gol gappa): AUD $1–3 per item.
• Butter chicken and naan at a good restaurant: AUD $8–15.
• Metro single journey: AUD $0.30–1.
• Taj Mahal entry (foreign national): AUD $20.
• Auto-rickshaw across central Delhi: AUD $2–6 (use the Ola or Uber apps for metered rides).

Delhi requires more active safety management than most Australian travel destinations. Specific points:

• Stomach bugs: Drink only bottled or filtered water. Avoid ice in street drinks, raw salads, and peeled fruit from street vendors. The severity of Delhi belly varies from mild to incapacitating — carry oral rehydration sachets and be prepared.
• Scams at Delhi Airport and New Delhi Railway Station: "Tourist offices" near major transport hubs are invariably scams — the real tourist office is at Connaught Place. Any taxi driver who takes you to a "travel agent" is earning commission on your misfortune.
• Air quality: Delhi has some of the world's worst air pollution — check aqicn.org before outdoor activities. N95 masks recommended when AQI exceeds 150.
• Solo female travel: Exercise more vigilance than in other destinations. Dress modestly, use Ola/Uber rather than hailing auto-rickshaws, and avoid isolated areas at night.

Day 1: Old Delhi

Dawn: Chandni Chowk breakfast and morning markets. Jama Masjid (India's largest mosque, free, modest dress required). Red Fort (entry fee, arrive at 6am opening). Afternoon: Humayun's Tomb. Evening: dinner in the Daryaganj area.

Day 2: New Delhi and Qutb

Morning: India Gate and Rajpath (New Delhi's grand imperial boulevard — now Kartavya Path). National Museum (AUD $3, excellent Mughal and Buddhist collections). Afternoon: Qutb Minar complex. Evening: Connaught Place for shopping and dinner.

Day 3: Taj Mahal day trip

6am Gatimaan Express from Hazrat Nizamuddin to Agra Cantonment. Taj Mahal (arrive by 9am). Agra Fort. Return to Delhi by 5pm. Evening: bazaar shopping in Lajpat Nagar.