Kathmandu

October–November is Nepal's best trekking season — clear skies after the monsoon, extraordinary mountain views, and ideal temperatures (0–20°C depending on altitude). October is the most popular month globally for Everest Base Camp trekking.

March–April is the second best season — the rhododendrons bloom extraordinary crimson and pink at altitude, temperatures are warming, and the pre-monsoon clarity is excellent. Some altitude cloud builds by late afternoon.

December–February: Cold in Kathmandu (2–15°C), very cold at altitude, but the mountains are crystal clear and the city is uncrowded. The Losar (Tibetan New Year) festival in February is extraordinary in Boudhanath.

1. Boudhanath Stupa at dawn

One of the largest spherical stupas in the world — 36 metres high, surrounded by Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, and circumambulated by monks in saffron robes spinning prayer wheels at dawn. The atmosphere at 6am, with incense smoke rising and monks chanting, is genuinely extraordinary. Free to walk the outer kora (circumambulation path); AUD $3 entry to the inner plaza. The rooftop cafés around the stupa offer an extraordinary bird's-eye view over breakfast.

2. Pashupatinath Temple

Nepal's holiest Hindu temple on the banks of the Bagmati River — funerary ghats where Hindu cremations take place openly, sadhus (holy men) in orange robes, and centuries of accumulated religious intensity. Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple but the surrounding ghats and forest are open. Entry AUD $10. The open cremations are approached respectfully — this is a deeply sacred space, not a tourist attraction.

3. Bhaktapur Durbar Square

The best-preserved medieval city in the Kathmandu Valley — a UNESCO World Heritage Site of extraordinary Newari architecture (pagoda temples, carved wooden windows, cobblestone squares) reached by microbus or taxi from Kathmandu (30 minutes, AUD $8). Entry AUD $15. Allow a full day — explore beyond the main square into the pottery district and weavers' courtyard.

4. Everest Base Camp trek

The world's most famous trek — 14 days return from Lukla, reaching 5,364m at Everest Base Camp. Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (30 minutes, AUD $200–250 each way — the most dramatic airport approach in the world). Trekking permit: AUD $35. Guided trek with accommodation and meals: AUD $1,200–2,500 per person. Physical preparation and acclimatisation is essential — altitude sickness is the primary risk.

• Guesthouse in Thamel (tourist district): AUD $15–35/night.
• Dal bhat (lentil soup, rice, vegetables, pickles — unlimited refills): AUD $3–5 at a local restaurant.
• Everest Base Camp guided 14-day trek: AUD $1,200–2,500 all-inclusive.
• Annapurna Circuit TIMS + permit: AUD $35–50.
• Taxi across Kathmandu: AUD $3–8.

Kathmandu is safe for tourists. The significant risks are altitude-related: Kathmandu itself (1,400m) causes minor symptoms for some — give yourself 24 hours before flying to high altitude for trekking. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a serious risk above 3,000m — ascend slowly (no more than 500m gain per day above 3,000m), and descend immediately if symptoms worsen. Never ascend with AMS symptoms. The 2015 earthquake caused significant damage in the valley; most UNESCO sites have been restored but some areas remain in recovery.

Day 1–2: Kathmandu valley

Day 1: Boudhanath Stupa dawn. Pashupatinath afternoon. Day 2: Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple, 365 steps, panoramic views). Kathmandu Durbar Square. Patan Durbar Square and Patan Museum (best museum in Nepal, AUD $5).

Day 3: Bhaktapur

Full day in Bhaktapur — Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square (Nyatapola Temple, 5-storey pagoda), pottery district, Tachupal Tole. Return for final Kathmandu evening.

Day 4+: Trek departure or onward

Morning flight to Lukla for Everest Base Camp trek (book 4–6 weeks ahead in peak season). Or join a guided Langtang Valley trek (10 days, less crowded than Everest, equally beautiful).