Siem Reap

November–April: Dry season — the best conditions for temple exploration. December and January are the coolest and most comfortable (25–30°C). February–April see increasing heat and some dust.

May–October: Wet season — the temples surrounded by greenery are extraordinarily beautiful, and the crowds at minor temples thin significantly. The moats and reservoirs fill. August and September are the wettest months.

1. Angkor Wat at sunrise

The world's largest religious monument — originally a Hindu temple, later converted to Buddhism — is best experienced at dawn when the sun rises behind the five towers and reflects on the western moat. The interior galleries of bas-relief carvings (the largest continuous bas-relief in the world) are best viewed in the cool of the morning. Entry: AUD $40 (1-day pass), AUD $65 (3-day), AUD $90 (7-day). Buy the day before to avoid the queue.

2. Bayon — the face temple

The state temple of Jayavarman VII — 54 towers, each carved with four enormous smiling faces (216 faces in total). Disorienting, extraordinary, and unlike any other building on earth. Go in the afternoon when the raking light brings out the three-dimensionality of the faces. Free with Angkor pass.

3. Ta Prohm — the jungle temple

The temple left deliberately partially unrestored, where the roots of strangler fig and silk-cotton trees embrace the stone walls and grow through the corridors. The setting that inspired Tomb Raider. Go early morning before the tour groups arrive (8am is already busy in high season — go at 6am). Free with Angkor pass.

4. Angkor Thom and sunset from Phnom Bakheng

The walled city of Angkor Thom — 9 square kilometres enclosed by a moat and wall — contains the Bayon, the Baphuon (extraordinary restored pyramid temple), and the extraordinary Terrace of the Elephants. Phnom Bakheng hill, 65 metres above the plain, provides the classic sunset view over the western pond of Angkor Wat — climb by 4pm to claim a position before the crowds.

• Budget guesthouse in Siem Reap: AUD $15–35/night.
• Mid-range hotel with pool: AUD $60–120/night.
• Tuk-tuk for a full temple day: AUD $15–25.
• Angkor 3-day pass: AUD $65.
• Restaurant dinner on Pub Street: AUD $8–20 per person.

Siem Reap is very safe for tourists. Carry only the cash you need (USD is the de facto currency alongside Cambodian Riel — carry small bills). The temple complex: wear sun protection obsessively, carry water, and watch your step on steep temple staircases (some are nearly vertical and several have caused tourist falls).

Day 1: The big three at dawn

3:30am departure for Angkor Wat sunrise. Explore Angkor Wat interior after breakfast. Ta Prohm jungle temple (before 9am). Bayon in the afternoon light. Sunset from Phnom Bakheng.

Day 2: Angkor Thom and outlying temples

Morning: Angkor Thom circuit — Baphuon, Terrace of the Elephants, Terrace of the Leper King. Afternoon: Preah Khan and Neak Pean (farther outlying temples, less crowded, beautiful). Evening: Siem Reap old market and Pub Street for dinner.

Day 3: Banteay Srei and rural

Day trip to Banteay Srei (35km north — the finest pink sandstone carvings in the Angkor complex, extraordinary detail) and Kbal Spean (riverbed carved with 1,000 lingams, 45-minute uphill walk). Return via floating village of Kompong Phluk (AUD $20) on the Tonlé Sap lake.