Hoi An

February–July is the dry season and best time to visit. March–May has the warmest and driest weather. The famous Hoi An Full Moon Lantern Festival occurs monthly — the old town dims its electric lights and fills with coloured silk lanterns reflecting on the river. Visit on a full moon night.

October–January is the wet season — Hoi An floods regularly, sometimes significantly, particularly September–November. The old town has adapted (shopkeepers elevate their goods, some streets become canals) but access can be difficult during heavy floods. Book flexible accommodation during this period.

1. Old Town at dawn and dusk

The UNESCO old town is at its most magical before 9am (before tour groups) and after 5pm when the lanterns light. Walk the Japanese Bridge, explore Tan Ky Ancient House (AUD $3 entry), and cross the river to the Cam Nam side for local Vietnamese life away from tourists.

2. Cooking class

Hoi An is one of Vietnam's best places for cooking classes — central Vietnamese cuisine (cao lau noodles, white rose dumplings, bánh mì) is distinct from north and south. Best classes start with a market visit. AUD $30–50 per person.

3. An Bang Beach

4km from the old town by bicycle or xe om. Better and less crowded than the more famous Cua Dai Beach (which has lost much of its sand to erosion). Beach restaurants serve grilled seafood from AUD $8–15 per dish. Rent a beach chair for AUD $2–3.

4. Bicycle the rice fields

Rent a bicycle (AUD $2–4/day) and ride into the rice paddies and traditional villages surrounding Hoi An. The countryside between the old town and the mountains is extraordinary — water buffalo, women in conical hats transplanting rice, ancient banyan trees. Best in the early morning.

• Budget guesthouse: AUD $15–30/night. Boutique hotel: AUD $50–100/night.
• Cao lau noodles (signature Hoi An dish): AUD $2–4.
• Bánh mì at Bánh Mì Phượng (Anthony Bourdain's favourite): AUD $1.50–2.
• Bicycle rental: AUD $2–4/day.
• Tailor-made clothing: AUD $30–100 for a custom dress or shirt (negotiate and allow 24–48 hours for fitting).
• Full Moon Lantern Festival: free to watch, AUD $1–2 for a paper lantern to release on the river.

Hoi An is very safe. The main concern is traffic — the old town streets are full of motorbikes and bicycles with limited footpaths. At night, the lantern-lit streets become very crowded with tourists — watch your pockets in dense crowds. The beach at An Bang has occasional rip currents — swim with caution.

Day 1: Old Town

Morning: old town before 9am — Japanese Bridge, Assembly Halls, Ancient Houses. Afternoon: tailor fitting (if having clothes made). Evening: Full Moon Lantern Festival night (if timed right) or river walk with lanterns.

Day 2: Beach and Bicycle

Morning: bicycle ride through rice fields and villages. An Bang Beach for swimming and lunch. Afternoon: cooking class. Evening: dinner at the night market (bridge area).

Day 3: Day trip to My Son or Marble Mountains

My Son Hindu ruins (45 minutes, AUD $6 entry) or Marble Mountains (20 minutes, AUD $2 entry) — Buddhist sanctuaries and cave shrines inside massive marble outcrops. Return for a final evening in the old town.