Peru is a destination that genuinely exceeds expectations. Machu Picchu is as spectacular as the photos suggest — more so, actually, because no photo captures the scale of the mountains surrounding it. But Peru is far more than one Inca citadel. The Sacred Valley archaeological sites, Cusco's fusion of Inca and Spanish colonial architecture, Lake Titicaca's floating reed islands, and the Amazon basin's extraordinary biodiversity make Peru one of travel's great multi-experience destinations.

Getting to Peru from Australia

There are no direct flights from Australia to Peru. Common routings: via Los Angeles (Qantas or United to Lima, total ~20 hours), via Santiago (LATAM has a strong trans-Pacific and South American network), or via Miami. Total journey time from Sydney: 20–28 hours depending on routing and layover. Return fares typically AUD $1,800–3,000 in economy. Using Qantas Points for business class via the US is excellent value on this route.

Visa for Australians

Australian passport holders receive 183 days visa-free entry to Peru. No advance registration required.

Altitude Sickness — The Critical Planning Factor

Cusco sits at 3,400m and Machu Picchu at 2,430m. Altitude sickness (soroche) affects up to 50% of visitors to Cusco regardless of fitness level — symptoms include headache, fatigue, nausea and shortness of breath. The standard advice: fly Lima first, spend 2 days at lower altitude, then ascend to Cusco gradually. Ask your GP about Acetazolamide (Diamox) before travelling — taken from 24 hours before ascent, it significantly reduces symptoms. Drink coca leaf tea (legal and effective) on arrival in Cusco. Avoid alcohol for the first 48 hours at altitude.

The Essential Peru Itinerary — 12 Days

Days 1–2 — Lima: Often underestimated, Lima has one of South America's best food scenes — Central, Maido and Astrid y Gaston are regularly on the World's 50 Best list. The Miraflores clifftop district and Barranco's bohemian streets are excellent for walking. The Larco Museum has the finest pre-Columbian gold collection outside a national treasury.

Days 3–4 — Cusco: Acclimatise gently. The Plaza de Armas is surrounded by extraordinary colonial architecture built on top of Inca foundations — look at the base of the cathedral walls and you're looking at Inca stonework so precise a knife blade can't be inserted between the stones. Sacsayhuaman fortress above the city, the San Blas artisan quarter, and the San Pedro market where locals shop.

Days 5–6 — Sacred Valley: The valley between Cusco and Machu Picchu is lined with Inca archaeological sites — Ollantaytambo (the best-preserved Inca town in existence), Pisac market, Moray's mysterious circular terraces and the Maras salt mines. Stay in the valley rather than returning to Cusco — altitude is lower and you're positioned for the early Machu Picchu train.

Days 7–8 — Machu Picchu: Take the train to Aguas Calientes (the town below Machu Picchu) and spend two days at the citadel — one day exploring the main ruins, one day hiking Huayna Picchu mountain for the aerial view. Book Machu Picchu entrance and Huayna Picchu separately, months in advance — they sell out. Current entrance: approximately AUD $55–75 per person per day.

Days 9–10 — Lake Titicaca: Fly or bus from Cusco to Puno on the shores of the world's highest navigable lake (3,812m). Day trips to the Uros floating reed islands and overnight stays on Amantani Island with local families. The lake's blue at altitude is unlike any water colour you've seen.

Days 11–12 — Amazon (Puerto Maldonado): A short flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado accesses the Madre de Dios Amazon basin. 2-night jungle lodges (AUD $300–600 all-inclusive) offer guided night walks, piranha fishing, wildlife spotting and genuinely dark skies. Macaws, giant otters, caimans and hundreds of bird species.

Peru Costs for Australians

Peru is mid-range for South America. Budget travellers: AUD $60–100/day. Mid-range: AUD $150–250/day. The biggest expenses are Machu Picchu entrance (AUD $55–75/day), the train to Aguas Calientes (AUD $50–100 return) and quality accommodation in Cusco (AUD $80–200/night). Street food (ceviche, lomo saltado, anticuchos): AUD $3–10. Restaurant meal in Cusco: AUD $15–30.

Getting to Peru from Australia

No direct flights operate between Australia and Peru. The standard routing is via the USA (Los Angeles or Dallas) with LATAM, American Airlines or United -- total travel time 20-28 hours including connections. Sydney to Lima typically costs AUD $1,600-2,400 return booked 3-4 months ahead. Alternative routing via Santiago (Chile) or Buenos Aires with LATAM can be cheaper by AUD $200-400 and offers the option of brief stopovers in both cities. Travel in shoulder season (April-May or September-October) produces the most favourable fare availability.

The Altitude Reality

Cusco sits at 3,400 metres above sea level -- higher than any point in Australia and significantly higher than most other popular South American destinations. Altitude sickness (soroche) affects a substantial percentage of visitors regardless of fitness level. The recommended approach: fly to Lima first (sea level) and spend 1-2 nights, then fly to Cusco rather than going directly from Australia. Spend the first day in Cusco resting rather than sightseeing. Drink coca tea (freely available everywhere in Cusco and a genuine local remedy), stay hydrated, and avoid alcohol on the first night. Most visitors acclimatise within 48 hours. Severe altitude sickness symptoms (persistent vomiting, difficulty breathing, confusion) require immediate descent and medical attention.

What Peru Costs

Peru is mid-range by South American standards. Budget: AUD $60-80/day (hostel, local restaurants, public buses). Mid-range: AUD $120-180/day (3-star hotel or boutique accommodation, good restaurants, tours booked locally). The Inca Trail permit (USD $600-900 per person all-in with a licensed operator) is the main budget spike and must be booked 4-6 months ahead as daily permits are limited. Machu Picchu entry is USD $45-60 depending on the circuit chosen. Cusco to Aguas Calientes (the Machu Picchu base town) by Peru Rail Vistadome: USD $60-90 each way -- worth paying for the scenic journey through the Sacred Valley.

Food and Drink in Peru

Peru has one of the world's great national cuisines and Lima is consistently ranked among South America's top dining cities. The essential eating: ceviche (marinated raw fish in lime and chilli, eaten at lunchtime only -- Peruvians don't eat it in the evening) at any Lima cevicheria, AUD $12-25. Lomo saltado (Chinese-Peruvian stir-fried beef with chips) everywhere, AUD $10-20. Pollo a la brasa (rotisserie chicken with aji sauce) at a local pollerìa, AUD $8-15 for half a chicken with chips. The market food halls in Lima (the La Esperanza market in Miraflores) deliver outstanding regional Peruvian cuisine at AUD $6-10 per dish. Central restaurant (ranked in the World's 50 Best every year) requires booking 2-3 months ahead -- the tasting menu is AUD $300-400 per person and represents the extreme end of Lima's food scene, but even mid-range Lima restaurants deliver a quality and creativity that exceeds most Australian city equivalents at significantly lower prices.